There are some trips that linger in your soul long after the bags are unpacked – and our seven-night expedition through the Northern Lau islands of Fiji was exactly that. Sailing aboard the MS Caledonian Sky with Captain Cook Cruises Fiji, we ventured into a remote and rarely visited region of the South Pacific, accessible only by small ship. It was a voyage of wild beauty and cultural connection, where each day brought new discoveries – from volcanic atolls and uninhabited islands to traditional villages and thriving coral reefs.
This particular expedition cruise was a seasonal itinerary that has since been retired, making the journey even more special in retrospect. To have experienced these secluded islands – many of which receive only a handful of visitors each year – felt like stepping into a dream. In some of the villages we visited, the islands were so remote that locals told us we were the first tourists they had ever seen. And there was one island in particular – so breathtaking, so untouched – that I’ve vowed to return. Since the trip, I’ve discovered a super-exclusive resort hidden deep within its jungle, and I can’t stop thinking about what it would be like to experience it from land as well as sea.
Before and after the cruise, we stayed at the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa – a luxurious beachfront escape that made for the perfect start and end to our journey.
Here’s what it was like day by day.
DAY 1 – TIVUA PRIVATE ISLAND
We arrived early at Port Denarau, buzzing with anticipation as we checked in for our cruise. After boarding the Caledonian Sky, we were welcomed with tropical drinks on the open deck – the first of many warm and personal touches that would define the trip. After settling into our suite (complete with a walk-in wardrobe, spacious balcony, and more storage than I’ve ever had at sea), we set sail with lunch and views of the mainland fading behind us.
Our first stop was Tivua Island, a private coral cay surrounded by a vibrant reef and part of Captain Cook Cruises’ conservation work. We snorkelled in the warm shallows, explored coral planting and clam rearing projects, and wandered sandy paths fringed with palms. That evening, we experienced our first sunset at sea – golden skies melting into the horizon as we watched from the deck of the Caledonian Sky, setting the tone for the magic to come. It was the perfect first taste of island life – laid-back, beautiful, and filled with heart.
DAY 2 – VATU-I-RA CONSERVATION PARK & MAKOGAI ISLAND
The morning began in Vatu-i-Ra Conservation Park – an ecologically rich marine protected area that set the tone for the day. Black noddies circled overhead as we approached by zodiac, creating a scene that felt straight out of a David Attenborough documentary. The water was crystal-clear, and the reefs teemed with life. This was also where we did our first shoot for The ACQUA Brand – capturing the sun-drenched magic of remote Fiji in the brand’s signature minimalist swimwear.
Later, we arrived at Makogai, one of the most fascinating stops of the entire cruise.
A guided walking tour led us through dense jungle to the ruins of a former leper colony – a sobering yet powerful reminder of the island’s history. Offshore, we snorkelled over giant clam gardens and visited a turtle sanctuary buzzing with marine life. Back on land, we joined a Sunday church service led by the local community, followed by a heartfelt performance of traditional music and dance.
Back onboard, we dressed up for the Captain’s Welcome Cocktails followed by a colourful Fijian fashion show – a joyous celebration of culture and craftsmanship.
DAY 3 – VATUVARA (HAT ISLAND)
There are places that feel almost mythical – and Vatuvara was one of them. This dramatic island rises steeply from the sea, earning its nickname “Hat Island.” What most people don’t realise is that hidden deep within its lush interior is one of the world’s most exclusive resorts. I didn’t know it at the time, but after the trip, I discovered its existence and made a promise to myself to return.
Vatuvara was so spectacular, I also shot a story for The ACQUA Brand on a deserted beach – the kind of setting where soft sand, volcanic cliffs, and turquoise water made every frame magic.
We snorkelled the protected marine park, wandered through the small Vatuvara village, and ended the day with cocktails and canapés on deck as the sky turned shades of coral and lilac. When I returned to our cabin after a day of adventures and shoots, there was an exclusive invitation waiting for me – a spot at the Captain’s Dinner that evening. Each night, a small group of guests is invited to dine at the Captain’s Table with his wife, and it was such a treat to hear about their adventures navigating the seas in Fiji and across the world.
DAY 4 – WAILAGILALA
We began the morning with a Helen Kaminski shoot from the ship – the tropical mist and soft early light casting an ethereal glow over the island backdrop.
Tiny, remote, and ringed by white sand, Wailagilala is the only true atoll in Fiji and home to a cast-iron lighthouse dating back to 1909. We visited Tarakua Village on the island before snorkelling from shore and zodiacs straight onto the surrounding reef – one of the most pristine we encountered.
That evening, Jason and I had our first proper date night in what felt like forever – a private dinner for two on the deck, lit by lanterns and moonlight, with nothing but the sound of waves and stars above. It was quiet, romantic, and truly unforgettable.
DAY 5 – QILA QILA, BAY OF ISLANDS & MAGO ISLAND
This was our biggest adventure day – and hands-down one of the best. We swam through sea caves in the Bay of Islands, explored surreal mushroom rock formations, and captured some of the most breathtaking drone content of the trip. Later, we paddled a glass-bottom kayak around a hidden dual beach that faced both sunrise and sunset.
We had a fantastic crew on our zodiac that day, and there was a wonderful sense of camaraderie as we bonded over every thrilling landing and spontaneous swim. The Bay of Islands itself was simply breathtaking – reminiscent of Phang Nga Bay in Thailand, but with even more luminous, iridescent aqua water. We had the entire pristine lagoon to ourselves. It reminded me of El Nido in the Philippines, where similar lagoons draw crowds by the boatload. There, we once kayaked at sunrise to beat the masses – here, we floated peacefully through an otherworldly seascape in the middle of the day, with no other vessels in sight. The stillness, the space, the utter solitude – it was a privilege that felt almost surreal. In any other part of the world, a place like this would be teeming with tourists. But here, it was ours, if only for a day.
Back onboard, there were more cocktails and canapés followed by an island-themed buffet dinner that felt straight out of my dreams. Everyone wore island attire – my literal dream dress code – and the mood was joyful, festive, and full of laughter.
DAY 6 – YACATA ISLAND & VATUVARA REEF
We started early with a drone shoot of the ship as the morning light kissed the ocean. Then it was back in the water to snorkel Vatuvara Reef – a protected stretch of coral garden bursting with colour and life.
That afternoon, we ventured to Yacata Island for a beach day like no other. It was here, on a deserted stretch of sand with tropical rain softly falling around us, that we captured our second Helen Kaminski shoot. The weather gave the scene a dreamlike quality – subdued hues, mist on the horizon, and a calmness that made the experience beautifully atmospheric.
That evening, we were invited to join the Executive Director’s Dinner – another chance to share stories, insights, and laughs with the people who bring this voyage to life.
DAY 7 – NACAMAKI & NABUNA VILLAGES
This day was all about cultural immersion and connection. We began at Nacamaki, where we witnessed the sacred turtle-calling ceremony – a tradition so spiritual that no photos were allowed. We hiked to a mountaintop where villagers called down to the sea, and turtles began surfacing in response. It was deeply moving and unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.
Later, we visited Nabuna Village for our final night celebration. There was a traditional island banquet, cultural performances, and an epic night of dancing beneath the stars – the perfect send-off.
DAY 8 – DISEMBARKATION
We had our final breakfast on the deck, surrounded by new friends and memories that already felt nostalgic. After farewell speeches and songs, we disembarked and were transferred back to Port Denarau Marina – salty, happy, and completely changed by the journey.
MS CALEDONIAN SKY
The MS Caledonian Sky felt more like a boutique hotel than a cruise ship. With just 57 suites and an intimate crew-to-guest ratio, the atmosphere onboard was warm, relaxed, and wonderfully personal. Our suite had a spacious balcony, a walk-in wardrobe, and so much storage I didn’t know what to do with it all – a luxury when you’re travelling with camera gear and island wardrobes.
Days flowed at a beautifully slow pace – breakfast on deck, morning expeditions, long lunches, sunset drinks, and dinners under the stars. The crew quickly learned our names and preferences, and nothing ever felt rushed. It was barefoot luxury at sea, with the comforts of a five-star stay and the kind of access you can only get with small-ship cruising.
ZODIAC EXPEDITIONS
Every day offered two off-ship expeditions – one in the morning around 9am and one in the afternoon around 2pm – launching directly from the Caledonian Sky by zodiac. Each evening or morning, we’d sign up for the experiences that suited us best, from active snorkelling sessions over vibrant reefs to relaxed beach landings and glass-bottom kayaking.
One of the most meaningful aspects of the cruise was the opportunity to visit traditional Fijian villages. These visits were always led with deep cultural respect and coordination with the local communities – from sacred rituals like turtle calling to music-filled welcomes and island feasts. In some places, we were told we were the first tourists to ever visit.
The flexibility made each day feel personal. You could snorkel in coral gardens one moment, then explore a remote village or paddle through a hidden cove the next. Most stops had multiple options to suit different energy levels and interests – whether you were in the mood for a hike, a swim, or simply wandering barefoot on a deserted beach. The expedition team were knowledgeable, passionate, and made every landing feel like a new discovery.
VILLAGE VISITS
The village visits were some of the most moving moments of the entire expedition – raw, real, and deeply personal. Many of the islands we visited were so remote, they had never welcomed tourists before. In some communities, we were told we were the first foreigners the villagers had ever seen – a privilege we didn’t take lightly.
Each village welcomed us with heartfelt hospitality: traditional ceremonies, singing and dancing, spiritual rituals, and curious, smiling children who were just as fascinated by us as we were by them. We were invited into their churches, schools, and homes – and into their lives, if only for a short while.
Before we left Australia, Captain Cook Cruises had shared a list of items that the villages could really use – so we came prepared. We brought big bags filled with donations: school supplies, new backpacks, pencils and pens, and copies of some of Ryder’s favourite books. We also packed bras for the women – a small gesture that felt deeply appreciated. It added such a meaningful layer to the trip, knowing we weren’t just visiting – we were giving something back.
These encounters left a lasting impression. They reminded us how powerful travel can be when it’s rooted in respect, generosity, and genuine connection.
You may have noticed we didn’t have our three-year-old Ryder with us on this journey. While the Caledonian Sky does welcome children, guests must be at least five years of age. It was our first trip without him, and although being apart tugged at my heart, I took comfort in knowing that this expedition just wouldn’t have been suitable for him at his age. With daily zodiac adventures and ocean-based excursions, the itinerary was more attuned to older children.
That said, there were a few primary school-aged kids onboard who were absolutely thriving – snorkelling, exploring, and soaking up every island moment. I found myself imagining the day Ryder is old enough to join us on a trip like this – a shared adventure rooted in learning, wonder, and unforgettable discovery.
Looking back, this wasn’t just a cruise – it was a rare chance to witness a part of Fiji that few travellers ever get to see. The Northern Lau islands are remote, raw, and steeped in culture and biodiversity. While this particular expedition with Captain Cook Cruises Fiji has since come to an end, the memories remain vivid: the electric blues of the reef, the haunting beauty of deserted islands, the warmth of village welcomes, and the feeling of complete disconnection from the outside world.
If you ever get the chance to explore this region – by private charter, future itinerary, or one-off expedition – take it. Some places are worth the journey, even if just once in a lifetime.
Where is the Northern Lau group in Fiji?
The Northern Lau islands sit between Fiji’s main islands and the international date line. They’re among the most remote parts of the country and can only be accessed by small expedition ships or private charters.
What’s the best way to experience these islands now?
Captain Cook Cruises no longer offers this itinerary, but private yacht charters or small expedition-style voyages may be available through bespoke operators. Visiting by sea is still the most practical and respectful way to explore the region.
What were the zodiac expeditions like?
Each day offered two off-ship excursions by zodiac – one in the morning and one in the afternoon. You could choose from options like snorkelling over reefs, kayaking to hidden beaches, or visiting local villages. The flexibility made it easy to tailor each day to your energy and interests.
What should I pack for an expedition cruise like this?
Pack light but smart – swimwear, rash vests, a good reef-safe sunscreen, something casual for onboard dinners, and comfortable sandals or water shoes for beach landings. A dry bag, wide-brim hat, and lightweight long sleeve are also essential.
You’ll also need appropriate clothing for village visits. As someone who’s petite and usually loves a mini or short shorts, I found myself short on options by the final village stop – I ended up wearing my Monday Swimwear green sarong as a long skirt. You’ll need to cover your shoulders and knees during village visits, but it’s extremely hot, so opt for lightweight, breathable options like flowy pants or long skirts paired with loose cotton shirts or scarves to drape over your shoulders.
Where should I stay before or after the cruise?
We topped and tailed our adventure at the beautiful Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa. It’s the perfect place to reset before or after the expedition – luxurious, family-friendly, and right on the beach at Natadola Bay.
Is this cruise suitable for children?
Children must be at least five years old to join the Caledonian Sky expeditions. The ship welcomes kids aged five and over. While our three-year-old Ryder wasn’t quite old enough to join us on this adventure, we saw how much the older children on board were thriving. From snorkelling off zodiacs to exploring remote islands and engaging in village visits, there’s so much to discover. The cruise is also an incredibly educational experience – there were marine biologists onboard, and the natural environment itself provided endless opportunities to learn and engage. I can’t wait for Ryder to experience a trip like this when he’s a little older.
