When planning our Indonesian babymoon, we sought a destination that was both remote and luxuriously unique – a place far from the everyday, yet deeply connected to nature. After beginning our journey at the serene Amandari in Ubud, we transitioned from rice fields to rainforest, setting off to Moyo Island to experience Amanwana. Meaning ‘peaceful forest,’ Amanwana is an exclusive retreat located on Moyo Island – a national park and natural paradise east of Bali – the only resort on this secluded island in Indonesia. With a collection of tented suites and a guest list that once included Princess Diana, Amanwana offered the perfect blend of barefoot luxury, natural beauty, and tranquil seclusion.
THE ISLAND
Amanwana is situated on Moyo Island, a remote and largely undeveloped nature reserve off the coast of Sumbawa in Indonesia. The journey itself feels like an adventure – a flight to Sumbawa, followed by a scenic boat ride over crystal-clear waters. While Moyo Island is not entirely private, Amanwana is the only resort on the island, offering guests an exclusive experience amidst the island’s pristine landscapes. Bicycles are available for guests to explore at their own pace, though the staff thoughtfully assigned us a tent close to everything – a gesture that made all the difference travelling pregnant with a toddler.
THE STORY
The story of Amanwana begins long before it opened its tented suites to the world. Nestled within a protected marine and nature reserve, the resort is deeply connected to its setting on Moyo Island – an island once home to sultans and long revered for its biodiversity.
Amanwana gained wider attention when Princess Diana visited in 1993, accompanied by her security team. At the time, she was one of the most famous women in the world, and came seeking solace in the quiet of the island. Like something out of a spy novel, British navy submarines swept the island two weeks before her arrival – a testament to the level of privacy and discretion Aman is known for. During her stay, she swam in the waterfalls on the island, now affectionately renamed Princess Diana Falls. She stayed in Tent 20, and while all 20 of Amanwana’s tents share the same elegant interiors, Tent 20 (now known as the ‘Princess Diana’ tent) offers added privacy and a hidden stretch of beach (with a swing!). It can be requested, but be sure to book well in advance as it’s a popular choice. We were lucky to gain access in between guests to capture content. The princess made a lasting impact during her visit – not just on the resort, but on the island as a whole.
She wasn’t the only icon to be drawn to this island sanctuary – Mick Jagger and David Bowie also stayed at Amanwana, adding to its legacy as a discreet escape for the world’s most famous faces. We spoke to some of the older staff who were on the island at the time and still remember her visit as an iconic and defining moment in Amanwana’s history.
THE AMANWANA FAMILY
But perhaps most impressive is the level of service. It’s quiet, considered, and so finely tuned that your needs are met before you even voice them. Whether it was preparing Ryder’s favourite food or making sure our tent was located for ultimate ease, every detail was thoughtful and tailored. The Amanwana team are always there when you need them – and somehow never in the way when you don’t. Their gentle presence blends into your day like the rhythm of the tides, creating a sense of calm that stays with you long after you leave.
What also sets Amanwana apart is its deep connection to the island’s local community. Many of the resort’s team come from the nearby village of Labuan Aji – a small settlement of just 500 residents. With only a handful of villages scattered across Moyo, Amanwana employs around 50 to 70 staff, more than half of whom are from the island itself. Their warmth and local knowledge shape every guest experience in the most genuine, grounded way.
Beyond the resort, Amanwana’s team visits local schools twice a month to teach English and share environmental knowledge – filling an important gap in the national curriculum. It’s a quiet but powerful way of giving back, and speaks to the heart of what makes this place so special.
On our first evening, as the sun began to set, we were walking back to our tent and I hoped to capture a few golden hour photos with my baby bump and Ryder. But Ryder wasn’t having it. Tired, cranky, and determined not to cooperate, he plonked himself down in the sand in protest. That’s when Gideon – one of the incredible Amanwana staff – gently scooped him up and carried him the rest of the way. Jason and I trailed behind, laughing, and snapping whatever moments we could. It wasn’t the serene sunset shoot I had in mind, but somehow it was even better – real, chaotic, beautiful.
AMANWANA WITH KIDS
While Amanwana is renowned for its tranquil, romantic appeal, it’s also a surprisingly wonderful destination for families. From jungle walks and beach picnics to waterfall swims and wildlife spotting, Ryder was in his element. The team embraced his boundless energy with warmth and enthusiasm – always happy to keep him entertained or indulge his love of splashing under the outdoor rock shower.
One of the most thoughtful inclusions for travelling families is Amanwana’s complimentary babysitting – available for up to four hours a day (USD $20 per hour after that). It allowed us the rare gift of time – to enjoy a snorkel together or simply sit by the sea, knowing Ryder was being cared for with genuine kindness and attention.
The team also arranged a surprise treasure hunt across the camp, sending Ryder off on a mini adventure to uncover clues and hidden ‘treasures.’ He was completely captivated – running from one corner of the camp to the next, piecing it all together with wide-eyed delight.
THE ACCOMMODATION
Staying in one of Amanwana’s tented suites is an experience like no other. Waking to the sounds of the jungle and the gentle lull of waves, with the filtered morning light dancing through canvas walls, felt both grounding and magical. At night, the calls of monkeys echoed softly, and in the early morning, their playful chatter stirred us awake.
There are two rows of tents to choose from – beach tents located right on the sand, and jungle tents nestled slightly further back in the trees. We stayed in a jungle tent and were still just a minute’s walk to the beach. The interiors are identical regardless of location – all 20 tents feature soaring canvas ceilings, air-conditioning, polished wooden floors, and Indonesian furnishings. Our lounge area became Ryder’s little corner. A bed was set up for him by the window, but more often than not, he snuggled in with us.
One of the joys as a mum was returning from our daily adventures to find our laundry done – folded neatly into handwoven baskets. And each evening, the turndown service brought surprises that delighted Ryder – a hand-carved turtle one night, a gecko the next, each with a sweet note. Waiting for what would appear next became a nightly ritual. Thoughtful touches extended to the welcome gifts too – handmade hats and woven bags, individually picked for each of us.
Each stay includes full board (daily breakfast, lunch, and dinner), round-trip car and boat transfers from Sumbawa Airport, in-room refreshments, non-alcoholic beverages, laundry, and use of non-motorised water sports.
THE RESTAURANT & BARS
The Restaurant, looking over the Flores Sea to Medang Island and the mountains of Sumbawa, serves fresh and simple cuisine, much of it made with products grown or reared on the island. The resort’s garden produces many of the vegetables, fruits and herbs used in the kitchen, while the daily catch is delivered straight from the fishing boats. Meals feature traditional Indonesian flavours and fresh island ingredients, beautifully presented without feeling overworked. On our first night, we shared a standout raw tuna dish that Jason declared the best he’d ever had – so good, I recreated it back home and shared the Lawar Tuna Samawa recipe on the blog.
Breakfast by the beach was a daily ritual, and we enjoyed a candlelit dinner under the stars with our toes in the sand. What was meant to be a romantic date night turned into a family memory as Ryder joined us, mesmerised by the bonfire, lanterns and moonlight. He loved the vibrant buzz of it all.
The service throughout each meal was faultless. Ryder developed a special bond with the staff – affectionately calling them ‘my boys.’ They’d entertain him with games, cars, and even attempts at chess using the resort’s carved wooden set. He’d ask for them every time we walked to the restaurant.
For sundowners, the beach bar near the swim deck became our go-to. And with those dreamy dusk colours lighting up the sky, it was the perfect setting for a cocktail – or two.
THE EXPERIENCES
One of the most anticipated experiences at Amanwana is a day trip to swim with whale sharks. We made the decision to skip this one as I was still experiencing morning sickness and the early pre-dawn start followed by a boat ride felt like too much. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime moment we’d love to come back for.
While the whale sharks are the biggest drawcard, there are other experiences to enjoy too. Just off the swim deck, we snorkelled over vibrant coral reefs, spotting parrotfish and angelfish as monkeys chattered from the trees above. There’s even a small hidden plunge pool built into the swim deck for post-snorkel dips.
Wildlife is woven into every part of the stay. Monkeys and deer roam the grounds freely and became part of our daily rhythm. Ryder loved spotting the monkeys – watching their antics never got old. We also got to meet the baby deer, part of the island’s conservation programme.
Other unforgettable moments included a private beach picnic on a deserted stretch of sand. We were dropped off by boat with a picnic lunch, snorkelling gear, and nothing but time. We swam between courses, lounged barefoot on sun mattresses, and explored shallow reefs – just us, the sea, and the sound of the waves.
Another highlight was the sunset cruise aboard Amanwana’s traditional wooden outrigger, Aman XIV. With canapés in hand and Ryder snuggled beside us, we drifted past the shoreline as the jungle came alive with birdsong and the sky turned shades of coral and gold. It was the perfect way to close out a day on Moyo Island – peaceful, timeless, and pure magic. The only thing that could rival it? The tiered jungle waterfalls we visited the next day.
THE WATERFALLS
One of our biggest adventures was the trip to Princess Diana Falls – also known as Mata Jitu or Barry’s Falls. To reach the falls, we took a boat to the edge of a small village on a more accessible part of the island, where Aman’s jeeps – the only vehicles on Moyo – were waiting. From there, we travelled deep into the jungle, Ryder fast asleep in the back seat.
The waterfalls themselves were extraordinary – tiered limestone pools cascading through the forest. Even in dry season, their flow was strong, fed by natural spring water. These were, without a doubt, the most stunning waterfalls I’ve ever seen – and I’ve swum in waterfalls all over the South Pacific and beyond. So unique were the formations, they looked almost manmade.
We had towels and gourmet snacks waiting for us, and Ryder had his own personal ‘waterfall butler’ who helped him climb in and under the falls and kept an eye on him while Jason and I captured content. It’s easy to see why Princess Diana was so taken by this spot during her visit.
SUSTAINABILITY & DESIGN
Amanwana has always prioritised harmony with its natural surroundings. This symbiotic relationship with Moyo Island – protected as a nature reserve since 1976 – traces back to the friendship between Sumbawa-born Admiral Abdulkadir, Australian explorer Barry Lees, and former mariner Bill O’Leary. With the help of Abdulkadir, Aman was granted permission by the Indonesian government to create a luxury camp, under one condition – the island’s ecosystem must remain untouched.
Architect Jean-Michel Gathy was brought on to design Amanwana, and envisioned a tented escape that felt entirely immersed in the wild. Not a single tree was felled in the creation of the camp, and each of the 20 standalone tents was positioned with care to blend seamlessly into the jungle. Guests wake under soaring canvas ceilings and step straight onto the beach – or into the trees.
WILDLIFE & CONSERVATION
With life both on land and under the water treated with the utmost care, Amanwana’s sustainability efforts extend far beyond its footprint. In 2022, the Indonesian government officially named Moyo part of the Moyo Satonda National Park – including the ocean in front of the resort.
The island is now a sanctuary for the once-endangered sulphur-crested cockatoos, and for Rusa deer, whose population has steadily increased thanks to Amanwana’s 25-year conservation programme. Expert guides offer insight into the island’s ecosystems, from jungle treks to wildlife encounters.
Marine life is equally protected. From November to April, green and hawksbill turtles nest on the island’s shores. A dedicated team safeguards their nests and guests can witness hatchlings take their first journey to the sea. Coral restoration efforts are also underway, with local residents being trained to fish more sustainably.
And for guests who want to do more, Amanwana offers a whale shark adoption programme in collaboration with Konservasi Indonesia – supporting vital research through satellite tracking and conservation.
Amanwana felt like a gift – the kind of place you don’t just visit, but carry with you long after you leave. There’s something extraordinary about being able to experience such remote beauty while pregnant, and having the reassurance of an in-house doctor gave us peace of mind. In fact, we ended up visiting him a few times to clean and dress a cut Ryder had picked up earlier in the trip.
We’re now planning our first island adventure with baby Cole, and when we asked Ryder where he wanted to go, he said he wanted to see ‘his boys in Bali.’ At first, we thought he meant the children of friends we often visit in Bali – who he affectionately calls his cousins. But he kept insisting it wasn’t them. “No, not my cousins. My boys.” Eventually, we realised he meant the team at Amanwana.
As we boarded the boat to leave, Ryder’s favourite staff member, Yoga, helped him onboard. Ryder was being his usual cheeky self and in all the commotion, the boat took off – with Yoga still on it. He wasn’t actually meant to be on board, but the mix-up meant Ryder had an extra 45 minutes with his favourite person. There was so much laughter – the perfect end to a magical stay.
We’re already dreaming of our return.
HOW TO GET THERE
Amanwana may feel like the edge of the world, but getting there is easier than it sounds. Most guests arrive via Bali, with a connecting domestic flight to Sumbawa Besar. From there, a scenic 45-minute boat ride whisks you across the Flores Sea to Moyo Island, where the adventure truly begins.
For those seeking a more seamless or luxurious arrival, Amanwana also offers private charter flights and helicopter transfers:
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Charter flights
The resort can arrange individual air charters with the Legacy 600 – a private aircraft that carries up to thirteen passengers and 20 large suitcases. Flights operate between Jakarta, Surabaya, or Bali to Sumbawa Besar. -
Private helicopter transfers from Bali
In partnership with Fly Bali, helicopter transfers are available directly to Moyo Island, departing from Melasti Beach Helipad in Bali. The one-hour journey offers a spectacular aerial perspective of Indonesia’s rugged beauty, arriving right at Amanwana’s doorstep.
FAQS
Where is Amanwana located?
Amanwana is located on Moyo Island, a remote nature reserve east of Bali and off the coast of Sumbawa, Indonesia. It is the only resort on the island.
Is Amanwana suitable for families with young children?
Yes – Amanwana is surprisingly family-friendly. Complimentary babysitting is offered for up to four hours a day (USD $20 per hour after that), and the team are incredibly warm and accommodating with children.
What is included in a stay at Amanwana?
All stays include:
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Round-trip car and boat transfers from Sumbawa Airport
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Full board (daily breakfast, lunch, and dinner)
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In-room refreshments and non-alcoholic beverages
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Laundry service
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Use of non-motorised water sports equipment
Can I book Amanwana for exclusive use?
Yes – guests can reserve the full camp by booking eight tents or more. A full camp buyout offers absolute privacy and can be tailored with bespoke experiences, private adventures, and personalised dining.
Are weddings and celebrations possible at Amanwana?
Absolutely. Amanwana offers an extraordinary setting for weddings, anniversaries, and milestone celebrations. The team can curate bespoke experiences in line with your vision – from beach blessings and waterfall ceremonies to starlit dinners and private cruises.
Is there Wi-Fi at the resort?
Yes, Wi-Fi is available in the tents and throughout the resort, allowing guests to stay connected if they choose to.
Which tent did Princess Diana stay in?
Princess Diana stayed in Tent 20 during her 1993 visit. All tents share the same elegant interiors, but Tent 20 offers added privacy and its own hidden stretch of beach. It’s a popular request – be sure to book well in advance.
