Perched on the edge of Bali’s lush Ayung Valley, Amandari isn’t just a place to stay – it’s a deeply spiritual experience. We arrived in Ubud for our babymoon with a sense of excitement and calm, eager for a moment of pause and connection before the arrival of our second baby. With Jason and our three-year-old son Ryder by my side – and 16 weeks pregnant with baby Cole – we stepped into a world of emerald rice fields, handcrafted artistry, and quiet luxury that felt like Bali at its most soulful.
Amandari in Ubud is part of Aman, the ultra-luxury hotel group known for its serene settings, architectural harmony, and impeccable service. With just over 30 properties across the globe – from the colonial elegance of Amangalla in Sri Lanka to the sun-drenched serenity of Amanzoe in the Greek Islands – Aman creates deeply immersive experiences rooted in culture, nature, and soul-soothing simplicity. Each resort feels entirely unique, yet unmistakably Aman. And here in Ubud, Amandari embodies that ethos beautifully.
THE RESORT
From the moment we were picked up, the journey to Amandari set the tone. Even amid Ubud’s famously busy streets, the drive felt serene in our luxuriously appointed van – cool, spacious, and impossibly calming. Arriving at Amandari felt like entering a secret garden. There’s a softness to everything here – from the pastel green accents on pool umbrellas and towels to the gentle design language that flows through the entire resort.
But what made our stay truly unforgettable was the care shown to Ryder. The staff surprised him with handmade toys crafted from banana stems – a sustainable, sensory-rich activity that was as beautiful as it was meaningful. These quiet touches of local culture, curated for the littlest guests, are what make Amandari feel so special for families.
Ryder also loved that the resort had a selection of inflatable pool toys available. One of his favourite things to do was chat to the staff about what toys they had tucked away – from animal floaties to fun water rings – and choose a new one each time we swam. It added a layer of playfulness to our time by the pool and showed just how thoughtful Amandari is when it comes to creating joy for younger guests.
ARCHITECT PETER MULLER AND THE HISTORY
Designed in 1989 by Australian architect Peter Muller, Amandari was inspired by the surrounding village of Kedewatan and Bali’s ancient spiritual traditions. Muller envisioned a resort that felt like a seamless extension of its landscape – and he succeeded. Every stone pathway, temple wall, and thatched roof was built in the style of a traditional Balinese village. Even the resort’s iconic curved infinity pool was the first of its kind in Bali, designed to mimic the shape of a local rice terrace.
Born in South Australia, Peter Muller was renowned for his site-responsive architecture that blended seamlessly with the natural environment. He was celebrated for his ability to honour local culture and materials, drawing inspiration from sacred geometry and a deep spiritual connection to land. Prior to designing Amandari, he worked extensively across Indonesia and Australia, with standout projects including his own residence in Whale Beach, Sydney, and various private estates and cultural buildings across Java and Sumatra.
Amandari is the only Aman resort designed by Peter Muller, making it a rare and enduring expression of his architectural legacy.
KEDEWATAN VILLAGE
Staying at Amandari offers a genuine connection to the nearby Kedewatan village, not just in aesthetic, but through its people and spirit. Many of the staff are from the local village, including the dancers and musicians who perform daily at the resort.
One of our favourite moments was a spontaneous Balinese dance and rindik class – led by children from Kedewatan – where Ryder watched in awe as gongs chimed and dancers twirled under the fading light. Later, we saw these same children performing during dinner, their joy infectious and their presence a reminder of the deep ties Amandari shares with the local community.
THE ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in Villa 2, a Valley Suite perched on the edge of the Ayung Gorge, where early morning mist swirled through the treetops and birdsong echoed from the jungle beyond. The suite felt more like a private villa, with a thatched roof, sunken marble bathtub, twin vanities, a spacious dressing area, and dreamy rainshower – my idea of the perfect island-style bathroom.
What truly set it apart were the design details. From the moment we walked in, it felt like we’d stepped into a sanctuary. The walls were adorned with custom-made wallpaper featuring traditional Balinese motifs in earthy, organic tones. Handcrafted teak furniture, intricately carved and beautifully aged, gave the space a sense of timelessness. The colour palette was soft and grounding – creams, sand, and warm wood, with accents of pale green echoing the resort’s signature hue.
Thoughtful touches were everywhere. From the handwoven travel bags (which I’m now using as a baby bag back home), to delicate hand fans and beautifully patterned sarongs, each piece felt intentionally selected and deeply connected to place. They even created a custom children’s bed for Ryder, carved from dark timber and finished with local textiles – it looked as though it had been made by an artisan from the village just for him.
One of our most treasured memories from the trip was in the open-air bathroom, where Ryder and I shared a warm bath under swaying palm fronds, racing the little banana stem boats he’d made with the staff earlier that day. It was one of those rare, simple moments that etches itself into your memory – and hopefully into his.
Amandari offers a collection of just 30 freestanding suites and villas, each designed to reflect the architecture of a traditional Balinese village. The suites are spread throughout lush tropical gardens and vary in size and layout, with some offering private plunge pools and views over the rice terraces or the Ayung Valley. For larger families or groups, the Amandari Villa provides a serene three-bedroom residence with its own infinity pool and dedicated staff. Despite the variety, every accommodation maintains the same sense of calm, privacy and connection to place that defines the Amandari experience.
THE DINING
Dining at Amandari was an experience in itself. We began our day with an à la carte breakfast in-suite, accompanied by the sounds of the jungle – a tranquil, private moment that felt like a meditation in itself. The menu was a celebration of fresh, local ingredients: vibrant smoothie bowls, cold-pressed juices, and poached eggs cooked to perfection, served with just-baked breads and tropical fruit. It was the kind of breakfast that makes you linger a little longer, wrapped in a sarong, sipping coffee on the terrace as the morning mist drifts through the valley.
But the real highlight was the Ngejot Balinese Feast, served in a private balé overlooking the Ayung Valley. Inspired by a Hindu tradition of sharing food in gratitude, the feast opened with a graceful performance by young Balinese dancers and unfolded into a degustation-style dinner of local favourites. Jason was thrilled to see his favourite dish, Babi Guling, on the menu, while I was drawn to the delicate banana stem soup. The evening ended with seasonal tropical fruit and coconut ice cream, under a sky full of stars.
WELLNESS
While I didn’t indulge in the full wellness offerings this time (pregnancy naps took priority), Amandari’s holistic approach to wellness is woven into every aspect of the stay. Their spa overlooks the lotus pond, offering traditional Balinese treatments and healing rituals. Next time, I’d love to try their Morning Purification and Temple Walk at Tirta Empul – an exclusive pre-opening access to one of Bali’s most sacred temples, guided by a local storyteller from Manukaya Let. It’s top of my list for a future visit with baby Cole in tow.
THE EXPERIENCES
From cooking classes and cultural immersions to guided treks and local market visits, Amandari offers a rich collection of experiences that celebrate Bali’s natural beauty and heritage. While our one-night stay only scratched the surface, it was clear that every experience is thoughtfully curated and deeply respectful of local traditions.
HOW TO GET THERE
Amandari is located just outside of Ubud, around 90 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar. The resort arranges luxurious private transfers, ensuring your journey is smooth and peaceful – even through Ubud’s traffic. You’re cocooned in comfort from the moment you land.
FAQs
Is Amandari suitable for families with young children?
Yes – while Amandari feels wonderfully serene, it’s also surprisingly child-friendly. Staff went above and beyond for our 3-year-old, including bespoke gifts and local crafts.
Is there a kids’ club?
There’s no formal kids’ club, but activities like banana stem toy-making and Balinese dance classes with local children offer meaningful cultural immersion for little ones.
Can you dine in your suite with children?
Absolutely. In-suite dining is beautifully executed – ideal for families with young kids who may not want to sit through a full restaurant meal.
Is Amandari stroller-friendly?
Yes, though the resort is spread across multiple levels and stone paths, so a lightweight stroller is best. Staff are happy to assist if needed.
What’s the best room type for families?
We loved the Valley Suite, with plenty of space and privacy. We stayed in Villa 2, which was particularly convenient as it was close to both the pool and the restaurant – perfect for families with small children or anyone who prefers not to walk far. For families with more than one child or those seeking even more space, Amandari also offers villas with private pools and the option of interconnecting suites. Just ask the resort when booking – they’ll guide you to the perfect configuration for your stay.
